Fashion
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Parisian parades dedicated to ready-to-wear for fall-winter 2023-2024 continue until March 7. Echoes of proposals from Rick Owens, Chloé, Givenchy and Loewe.
Miracle. Finally a designer who opens a breach in the gleaming bubble of Fashion Week, to mention the neighboring hell. “We are a year into a war and we see how inspiring dignity in the face of aggression can be. Moments like these can call for reverent formality and sobriety, with moments of delicacy reminiscent of what’s at stake.” Thank you Rick Owens, for recalling the real. After, to each his own appreciation of sobriety, and any connoisseur of the work of the great American honcho steeped in the underground knows that his version will be anything but boilerplate.
“I wanted it to be worthy of Avedon”, Owens also said. Eminently feminine, sculptural and disturbing, we deduce. Mission accomplished… in his own way. Owens shows women who are bald, shaved or with hairstyles worthy of Star Wars, with often blackened eyeballs (it’s beautiful), unattainable on the raised podium, intimidating in their orthopedic-looking platform boots, stunning in their sartorial audacity – at least by common standards. Even the famous “little black dresses” presuppose an extraordinary aplomb, hyper-indented in asymmetry. They can be warmed up with overinflated or donut-shaped down jackets, which can be found throughout the collection. The huge leather jackets