Parades
Article reserved for subscribers
Dior, Saint Laurent, Maitrepierre, Mame Kuroguchi, Anrealage and the IFM: echoes of the first Parisian fashion shows dedicated to women’s ready-to-wear for fall-winter 2023-2024, which started on Monday.
Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of Christian Dior, pays tribute each season to the work of female artists. This time, the installation of the parade, gigantic as usual, was carried out by the Portuguese Joana Vasconcelos, whom the French public had discovered when she had been invited to exhibit in the salons of the Palace of Versailles in 2012.
The work produced for the occasion is made up of organic shapes, disproportionate drops, composed of a multitude of fabrics, embroideries, seams and knitting, bringing together tassels and pompoms, silk and cotton, inspired by the archives of the house founded in 1947. Certain motifs evoke nature and the garden where Christian Dior found calm and sometimes ideas, a passion shared with his sister, Catherine Dior, one of the three women cited as inspiration for this collection, with Juliette Gréco and Edith Piaf , two beasts of the stage with a sober look. Nearly a hundred models intersect between the forms of Vasconcelos’ work which transforms the place into a promenade, under the eyes of the stars of the moment: the singer of Blackpink, Jisoo, the star of