the woman is refined – Liberation

While the luxury sector is prancing along, in an unsatisfactory general context, the Parisian women’s ready-to-wear fashion shows for fall-winter 2023-2024 attest to a caution not devoid of panache, with rather sober but very neat proposals. .

Not hair-raising, cautious, but in good shape: this is the first overall impression we get from Paris Fashion Week, which began on February 27 and ended on March 7. The creators remain faithful to their codes or they reinvest those of their houses. The realization is meticulous, very precise, often with a haute couture imprint, even the “cuddly toy” pieces in flannel do not invite letting go, streetwear is losing ground in favor of sophistication. Classicism is not corny, the suit is also omnipresent, in pants version but also skirt, and the colors traditionally of the season (black, gray, brown, red and dark green) dominate. That doesn’t preclude sharpness or spectacularity, but they are the result of refinement rather than showiness: we flap a large, indisputably hieratic leather coat, a chiseled black velvet dress, a limpid pencil skirt; we favor graphic lines with, in particular, the shoulders in majesty in many proposals; we play with transparencies but subtly, the sexy is not asserted, the woman is not an object. It is not (necessarily) nervousness. More pragmatism. Because while mid-range ready-to-wear has been in crisis for several years, the luxury sector is doing very well. No need to pretend to overturn the table. Especially in a general context (war, ecological, political and economic crisis) which does not invite fr