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The Pierre Cardin brand is relaunching in line with the founder, Stella McCartney is extending its ecological quest, and Nicolas Ghesquière is expanding its field of possibilities at Vuitton: the fashion week dedicated to women’s ready-to-wear continues in Paris until see you on Tuesday.
As much to say it bluntly, after eight days of non-stop parades, in our brain, it’s porridge, the what-state-I wander, too many images, noises. So what remains of still active neurons takes the tangent, dreams of a massage, of a one-way ticket to the Icelandic fjords or the Atacama desert. Instead of which he lands, Sunday evening, at the Pierre Cardin fashion show which takes place in the shop on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.
It had been thirty years since the brand left the official calendar of Paris Fashion Week and its return two years after the death of its founder was intriguing. At the helm, we find his nephew Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, 70, an engineer by training. After all, since fashion is always starting over, why not consider updating it? The problem is that the unisex wardrobe he weaves seems trapped in a spatiotemporal fault, as if he came straight out of the house archives. A crop top, tapered vinyl pants or the promise of recycled materials are not enough to bring the modernity or the audacity with which the name of Pierre Cardin was synonymous. The graphic force is there, but as if cryogenized; it should be warmed up. This is particularly obvious on the men’s side, with these suits which seem to be clogged up when it’s time to relax, and