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Napkin rings: Omar Dhiab, rising star
He won his first Michelin star in March. Omar Dhiab, 32, who worked for the Bernard Loiseau group in particular, is a rising star in French gastronomy – that is to say: Liberated, we liked his table, especially since it was praised by right-wing newspapers such as point Or Le Figaro, the proof that we can still get along, in this country… as long as good food plays the mediator. Starting with his croque with sweetbreads and Grenoble condiments, surprising, ultra-gourmet, the very type of good idea well executed. In the five-course lunch menu, we also liked to start with its vine leaf in tempura, and the beef press lollipop. The rest of the meal is more classic (deer, seafood… everything is under control) but at the end we find a reference to its Egyptian origins with a semolina cake prepared like a family. We enjoy it, especially since head sommelier Margot Angibault masters her score like the back of her hand.
Restaurant Omar Dhiab. 23, rue Hérold, 75001. Lunch menu (weekdays): 45 euros (starter-main course or main course-dessert) and 58 euros (starter-main course-dessert). Closed Sunday and Monday.
But what is this dish? The cacik, cucumber on the board
Cacik, pronounced “djadik” in Turkish (1), is a cold soup that is usually found inside mezze dishes in all restaurants in Istanbul and Turkey.
You will need: 600 g of cucumber; a liter of yogurt; 3 teaspoons of white vinegar; 3 teaspoons of olive oil; 3 teaspoons of chopped mint or 2 teaspoons of dried mint; 3 teaspoons of fennel; 3 teaspoons of salt.
Peel, seed and grate the cucumber. Beat the yoghurt in a terrine so as to make it smooth, then add the cucumber, vinegar, olive oil, mint, fennel and salt. Put the soup in the refrigerator for two hours. Serve the cacik in chilled plates or bowls. You can add one or two ice cubes.
(1) Food and drink in the Mediterranean by Paul Balta, illustrations by Fabien Seignobos, ed. Sindbad / Actes Sud, 2004, 28.40 euros.
Tip: make your fish stock
Nothing beats a good homemade fish stock for making sauces, poaching fish, but also concocting risottos. You need 300 g of very clean fish trimmings purchased from the fishmonger, for example a hake head and a few whiting bones; 1 onion ; 2 carrots; 4 sprigs of parsley; 1 stalk of celery; 1 knob of butter; 3 tablespoons of oil; 20 cl of white wine; 1 pinch of salt ; 50 cl of water.
Peel the onion and cut it into quarters. Scrape the carrots and cut them into sections of about 3 cm. Wash the parsley and celery and cut them into a few pieces. Heat the oil and butter in a saucepan, put the vegetables in it over high heat. As soon as the cooking resumes, lower the heat and continue until the vegetables are tender and begin to take on color. Then add the fish, white wine, water, salt, and cook gently for twenty minutes. Skim carefully from the start. Switch to fine Chinese. This stock can be frozen in portions of about 10 cl for use in the next two or three months.
Source : Pâtés and terrines by Yvonne de Blaunac, ed. The Big Book of the Month, 1988.